Do you ever wonder what very few tools you would take on a light weight backpacking or
camping trip? Or what you would take in case of an emergency? In this article, I hope to help you
figure that out, and tell you what I would use. But, before I start, let's go over what all your tools need
to cover. You need some kind of shelter, a way to make fire, a generous amount of cord, a good
cutting tool, stuff to cook in, and a water filter. That is the basis on which I picked these 9 tools.
#1) A good stout belt knife. You should have a lot of faith in this blade. 3 things to look for in a
good blade are; a 90 degree spine, for scraping bark and fine shavings, a good grind like a
Scandinavian or full flat, and a comfortable handle.
#2) Machete. I like the Gerber gator Jr. machete, because it has a good sheath and a
comfortable rubber handle. That being said, any good machete will work, as long as it's
comfortable. I would chose a machete over a hatchet because it can be used as a food source;
you can easily kill snakes and gar with one.
#3) 100' of black paracord. This stuff is great, you can use it to make a good shelter, and it ties
really strong, so you can use it for just general use.
#4) 75' of jute twine. I love this stuff for lashing spears, and making things as needed. It ties
strong, and you can unravel it and use it as tinder.
#5) To cook in, it's hard to beat a good cooking pot with a frying pan lid, but not to big of a pan.
This can also be used for holding some stuff like your paracord and twine.
#6) Ferro rod, or BIC lighter. This is where it depends on the trip your taking. If your in the
mountains where you could break an ankle, the BIC would be the better, so there's minimum
tinder-gathering. But, if you are in the woods, there is tinder readily available, and a ferro rod
would be easy to use, take one of those, it will last a lifetime. (Be sure to get the good ones like
sold from self reliance outfitters)
#7) Water filter. I don't have a preference, but I like the LifeStraw, it is very compact.
#8) Tarp. A good tarp can make making shelter very easy.
#9) Sleeping bag.
These 9 tools are the core of my camping kit, and they cover everything! From food to shelter, (if
you know your stuff) these can save your life, or if you like camping simple, try taking only these.
Yes, that's a challenge.
Tuesday, May 17, 2016
Tuesday, May 10, 2016
Basic Blacksmithing Projects, Part I
THIS is part 1 of what I hope to be a many part series on blacksmithing. In this part, I will go over the tools and equipment, plus making a basic rebar knife. For those of you who have not subscribed, now is a good time to do that.
TOOLS:
First you will need a forge, which is the heart and soul of this whole thing. There are still a few available you can buy, although it is a lot easier to build one. Check out my making the trap spring knife post to see a link to a swallow forge video on doing this. Be sure to use coal or charcoal in your forge, only they will burn hot enough to really forge.
For holding the metal while its hot, a pair or five of tongs are a must. You can find these at flea markets. It is best to go ahead and get a good anvil at the beginning, you wont regret it. These can be found at junk yards and bought online. You will also need a stand. If possible, you can cut a stump off at the right height, and fasten your anvil to that. If this feat is not possible, just a large log that is even at top and bottom is great. A quenching bucket is like a paint can, or other can filled with oil. If you are only working with medium steel (rebar), then water will work fine, but oil is a must for high-carbon steels. And it doesn't have to be special oil, just cooking oil or old car oil. All this does is keeps it from cracking when you harden it. Then grinders. A good bench grinder is a must and a belt sander with metal belts works fine to put a good high grind on your knife. Then last but not least, safety equipment. I use good calf leather gloves and clear safety glasses. When you are working with heavy metal, a good leather apron is a good guard against melting or burning your shirt. And those are the basic tools.
MAKING THE KNIFE:
To start with, get a 2' piece of rebar red hot in your forge.
Then start flattening out about 5" at one end. Stop when its about 3/4", and square the sides off. It should end up being about 1/2" wide, and 1/8" thick.
Get the whole flat end hot again, and curve it around the end of your anvil, like in the picture. That is the handle.
For the blade, go about 1" up from the beginning of the handle, and measure how big you want your blade. Then, with a hacksaw, cut it off. Now, go about 1" up from your handle again, and flatten and shape your blade, then, with angled blows, put a little taper on it.
When you have the desired shape, get it a dull red, and set it aside to cool, no water. after it's cool, it is very soft, and you can do what ever grinding you need. When that's done, put it BACK in your forge and get it a glowing red, and quench in oil. It is now very hard and brittle. We need to take some of the hardness out. Polish the knife blade, but quench about every 4 seconds, so you don't ruin the temper. Once it is shiny, grab the handle with vise grips, and put it spine DOWN in your forge. Do not turn on the billows. You will see a yellow, then a blue coming up the blade. When the yellow reaches the edge, quench it in water very quickly, NOT OIL. Your knife it now the correct hardness, so you may finish grinding, but keep it very cool, quenching every 2 or 3 seconds, then put an edge on it.
Have Fun,
Caleb
P.S. please comment!!!!
TOOLS:
First you will need a forge, which is the heart and soul of this whole thing. There are still a few available you can buy, although it is a lot easier to build one. Check out my making the trap spring knife post to see a link to a swallow forge video on doing this. Be sure to use coal or charcoal in your forge, only they will burn hot enough to really forge.
For holding the metal while its hot, a pair or five of tongs are a must. You can find these at flea markets. It is best to go ahead and get a good anvil at the beginning, you wont regret it. These can be found at junk yards and bought online. You will also need a stand. If possible, you can cut a stump off at the right height, and fasten your anvil to that. If this feat is not possible, just a large log that is even at top and bottom is great. A quenching bucket is like a paint can, or other can filled with oil. If you are only working with medium steel (rebar), then water will work fine, but oil is a must for high-carbon steels. And it doesn't have to be special oil, just cooking oil or old car oil. All this does is keeps it from cracking when you harden it. Then grinders. A good bench grinder is a must and a belt sander with metal belts works fine to put a good high grind on your knife. Then last but not least, safety equipment. I use good calf leather gloves and clear safety glasses. When you are working with heavy metal, a good leather apron is a good guard against melting or burning your shirt. And those are the basic tools.
MAKING THE KNIFE:
To start with, get a 2' piece of rebar red hot in your forge.
nice and hot! |
Then start flattening out about 5" at one end. Stop when its about 3/4", and square the sides off. It should end up being about 1/2" wide, and 1/8" thick.
It should end up being about 1/2" wide, and 1/8" thick. |
handle shape |
almost done |
When you have the desired shape, get it a dull red, and set it aside to cool, no water. after it's cool, it is very soft, and you can do what ever grinding you need. When that's done, put it BACK in your forge and get it a glowing red, and quench in oil. It is now very hard and brittle. We need to take some of the hardness out. Polish the knife blade, but quench about every 4 seconds, so you don't ruin the temper. Once it is shiny, grab the handle with vise grips, and put it spine DOWN in your forge. Do not turn on the billows. You will see a yellow, then a blue coming up the blade. When the yellow reaches the edge, quench it in water very quickly, NOT OIL. Your knife it now the correct hardness, so you may finish grinding, but keep it very cool, quenching every 2 or 3 seconds, then put an edge on it.
finished knives |
Have Fun,
Caleb
P.S. please comment!!!!
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